Emeralds popped up everywhere in this season’s high jewelry collections and now, Muzo, one of the leading producers of the world’s most exceptional Colombian emeralds, has teamed up with 10 leading high-end jewelers to create a capsule collection of designs crafted from its stones. The all-female cast of collaborators includes Colette, Harwell Godfrey, Jenna Blake, Katherine Jetter, Loren Nicole, Michelle Fantaci, Nina Runsdorf, Robinson Pelham, Silvia Furmanovich and Sorellina.
“The motivation behind partnering with this particular group of designers for our collaboration came very naturally,” Gabbi Harvey, head of business development for Muzo, told Robb Report. “We love the idea of celebrating female talent in the jewelry industry, and the concept is in line with our pioneering efforts in Colombia to empower women on a local level.” The Muzo mine in the Boyacá region employs 1,000 local men and women and has been known for its commitment to modernize mining practices to ensure a safer and healthier environment for its employees while contributing to the community’s economic growth.
It is the fourth project of its kind for Muzo, but this year’s offering has expanded to incorporate more inclusive price points from $1,000 to $100,000. Among the most striking pieces is Furmanovich’s take on the green stone, which she incorporated into her wood marquetry earrings and recent Japanese-inspired bamboo creations from her current line. The must-have is a pair of lightweight, harp-shaped bamboo statement earrings accented with round cabochon-style emeralds. “The pieces include a pair of earrings made with lacquered bamboo using urushi, a technique that has been around for thousands of years to create intricately crafted objects and the lacquer itself,” says Furmanovich. “The earrings resemble branches of red coral and exemplify our passion for using alternative materials and techniques that display superb craftsmanship.”
Loren Teetelli, of Loren Nicole (a 2020 Robb Report “Best of the Best” winner), chose to accentuate the stones in rich settings of 22-karat Fairmined yellow gold, including a versatile pair of earrings that can be worn as pear-shaped drops, but also come with a semi-circle gold jacket punctuated with pearls. “Prior to this collaboration, I rarely worked with emeralds and never with large faceted gems,” says Teetelli. “Because of the focus on highlighting the cut material for this year’s collaboration, it was a challenge to discover how I work with faceted stones. I’m grateful to them for that challenge because it has opened the door to so many more design possibilities I would have never considered. Perhaps I am biased, but high-karat gold and emeralds seem like they are meant to exist alongside each other.”
Teetelli is a former archaeologist and conservator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art based in Los Angeles, who has used her former occupation as the source of inspiration for her jewels. Though her work is created for people with modern sensibilities, Each piece is rooted in the craftsmanship and designs of antiquity.
San Francisco-based designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey, of Harwell Godfrey, also looked to the past to create stunning pieces set in yellow gold, onyx, turquoise and pearls. Her source? Cleopatra’s vault. “I was inspired by the idea of imagining what might be in a long lost treasure trove of the jewel-loving Queen of the Nile,” she says. “I got lost in the colors and materials of the time period—including emerald, pearls, lapis lazuli and turquoise, among others—and then played with pattern using my signature triangle inlay, this time a nod to the pyramids of ancient Egypt.”
Some other pieces that should pique interest are Katherine Jetter’s diamond and emerald hoops set in white gold with a splash of neon blue and Jenna Blake’s eye-catching lavender enamel, diamond and yellow-gold shell charm encircling a two-carat pear-shaped emerald.