Chopard; Patek Philippe; IWC
The metal of the moment? In the watch world, it’s undoubtedly rose gold. At Watches and Wonders Geneva earlier this month, the hoopla over steel seemed to have subsided, as watchmakers introduced some of their most significant novelties encased in precious metals.
Platinum, as in Rolex’s icy new 1908 watch, made a strong appearance, but the warm, vintage-inspired look of rose (or pink) gold — especially when combined with a contrasting color such as black or grey — was a clear favorite, as the new models highlighted below make clear.
Photo : Rolex
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40 and Day-Date 36
Contrast is at the heart of Rolex’s two new Day-Date models in 18-karat Everose gold. In the Day-Date 40, the pinkish hue of the case is juxtaposed with the model’s slate ombré dial, while in the new Day-Date 36, the gold stands out all the more thanks to the model’s beguiling blue-green dial (which is framed by a bezel set with 60 trapeze-cut diamonds, marking the first time this type of bezel has featured on an 18k gold version of the watch). $41,500 and $80,000
Photo : Chopard
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono
The XL Chrono version of Chopard’s sporty Alpine Eagle collection now comes in 18-karat ethical rose gold (for more on the brand’s responsible sourcing practices, see here). At 44 mm, the watch has an unmistakable heft. Inside that robust casing ticks an equally powerful triple-patented 03.05-C chronometer-certified movement with flyback function. Fans of two-tone style will appreciate the model’s Bernina Gray dial, a tribute to the color of the Alpine landscape, home to the majestic raptors that lend the collection their name. $73,400
Photo : Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/1R-001
Nearly six decades after its introduction, the Golden Ellipse by Patek Philippe is as stylish as ever. Exhibit A: the chic rose gold edition unveiled in Geneva. In a return to 1970s and 80s style, the brand revived a tradition of offering the Ellipse on a supple chain bracelet. The product of 15 years’ development, the new bracelet reflects both modern, patented construction techniques as well as the handiwork of master artisans. With its ebony-black sunburst dial and caliber 240 ultra-thin self-winding movement, the piece is a study in slim, rosy perfection. $60,100
Photo : IWC
IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 and IWC Portugieser Chronograph
IWC’s elegant, dress-inspired Portugieser range welcomes a handful of new rose gold models distinguished by clean, open dials in a sleek “Obsidian” execution. Two of our faves are the new Portugieser Automatic 40 (Ref. IW358401) “Obsidian,” now in a more compact 40 mm case, and the Portugieser Chronograph, a true testament to the brand’s reputation as a purveyor of “sporty elegance.” $18,500 and $19,200
Photo : TAG Heuer
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper 39 mm
Last year, TAG Heuer re-introduced the Carrera Skipper chronograph in steel. This year, the brand ups the ante with a precious metal addition featuring fine brushed and polished finishes in 18k 5N rose gold. Once again, contrast is the name of the game: The model’s sea-blue dial appears all the more vibrant in the context of the rose gold case. It also features two sharply contrasting subdials, a 12-hour counter in “Intrepid Teal” and a 15-minute regatta counter divided into three, five–minute segments of different colors. $21,500
Photo : Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Chronograph Moon
Among the talking pieces of Watches and Wonders was the new Duomètre Chronograph Moon, building on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 17-year-old Duomètre chronograph mechanism with the addition of a charming celestial complication. Available in two versions, a platinum case with a copper-colored dial and a pink gold case offset by a silver dial, the watch’s standout feature is its twinned approach to timekeeping: Equipped with two separate barrels and two independent gear trains—one to drive the escapement (for timekeeping) and one to power the complications—the movement beats with remarkable, and steady, precision. $70,000
Photo : Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina
A tribute to Roger Dubuis’ 20-year expertise in tourbillons, the Orbis in Machina eschews the mechanism’s traditional 6 o’clock position and instead places the tourbillon front and center. Available in a limited edition of 88 pieces, the striking piece — which features contrasting concentric circles in pink gold and grey that indicate the seconds, minutes and hours — fuses watchmaking tradition with cutting-edge engineering, a brand signature. $225,000
Vanguart Orb
The seven-year-old luxury watchmaker Vanguart makes a big splash with its new Orb model, a flying tourbillon that allows the user to toggle between manual and automatic modes. Featuring an openworked movement in titanium, the model comes in a rose gold case with a microblasted finish, handmade polished bevels and satin finishing, on a white rubber strap—the epitome of summertime chic. Note the 2 mm diamond-set orbital mass on the periphery of the movement, aka the watch’s brilliant winding system. 180,000 Swiss francs (about $197,740)
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