Paris—In January, De Beers released two sets of high jewelry, a teaser for the rest of the collection to come.

 

Now, coinciding with high jewelry presentations in Europe last month, De Beers has unveiled the rest of its 2022 high jewelry collection, “The Alchemist of Light.”

 

With five sets comprising 45 one-of-a-kind pieces, consider this second chapter The Alchemist’s main course.

 

The Alchemist of Light interprets light’s reflection on different surfaces and throughout different times of the day. 

 

“Dusk Reflection,” for example, features De Beers’ abstracted lotus motif, featuring round diamonds atop a square setting. The set’s four jewels feature the repeated motif, symbolizing the daily rhythms of the lotus flower blooming and closing at night.

 

White round brilliant-cut diamonds are set in rose and white gold with a “satinée radial” finish, similar to a brushed pattern. 

 

A flexible choker features a 1.13- carat, fancy intense pink radiant-cut diamond from De Beers’ Natural Works of Art collection. The choker transforms into a pair of cuff bracelets, and the pink diamond pendant is detachable to be worn on a longer necklace. 

 

A long necklace features a detachable pendant with 1.02-carat round brilliant diamond at its center. 

 

Long earrings can be converted to studs or worn asymmetrically with one stud and one earring long.

 

The second set of high jewelry, “Ascending Shadow,” conveys an entirely different energy, thanks to colorful anodized titanium and coated aluminum in shades of pink, blue, and green. 

 

Graduated metalwork and winding diamonds are inspired by the spiral staircase in De Beers Jewellers’ new flagship store in London. The graduation allows for a contrast of light and shadow. 

 

Another contrast is made with the mix of faceted diamonds with rough diamonds. 

 

A necklace combining blue aluminum and diamond-set blue titanium is made of 142 individually articulated pieces as aluminum and titanium cannot be melded together. 

 

The necklace features a row of marquise-shaped diamonds alternating with rough green diamonds for an unexpected accent. At its center is a 3.41-carat pear-shaped fancy light gray diamond. 

 

Ten jewelers and five setters worked to create the necklace alone. 

 

Hoop earrings, drop earrings, and a headband feature white diamonds and green rough diamonds, with some incorporating gray diamonds as well. 

 

Pink aluminum earrings with titanium feature round brilliant-cut white diamonds and pink diamonds. Marquise-shaped diamonds and brownish pink rough diamonds surround 1.02-carat and 1.01-carat pear-shaped diamonds. 

 

At the center of the pink aluminum and titanium cocktail ring is a 1.24-carat pear-shaped fancy brown-orange diamond. 

 

Finally, a green aluminum and titanium cocktail ring has a 1.11-carat Asscher-cut fancy orange-brown diamond and a 1.11-carat radiant-cut fancy yellowish-green diamond at center. 

 

But where that set gets its color from its metals, the color in “Midnight Aura” comes courtesy of chrysoprase. 

 

 

De Beers said “green clouds of stardust” were the set’s inspiration. 

 

White round brilliant-cut and princess-cut diamonds are set in cabochon-cut chrysoprase in jewels that also feature black rhodium. 

 

The set’s fabric-like necklace has hundreds of bezel-set diamonds that create an articulated mesh-like netting. The piece can be worn in different ways thanks in part to a detachable 20.57-carat pear-shaped white diamonds from the Natural Works of Art diamond collection. 

 

Chandelier earrings are also convertible and can be detached, leaving only the pear-shaped diamond studs. Climber earrings and two rings round out the assortment.

 

Leader of the Op Art movement Victor Vasarely inspired the “Optical Wonder” set’s graphic, geometric patterns. 

 

Black aluminum is utilized alongside yellow rough and polished diamonds in several styles, the striped pattern an ode to Vasarely.

 

 A 3.02-carat fancy intense yellow radiant-cut diamond is the focal point of the set’s necklace, which pairs seamlessly with longline convertible earrings and an open double-finger ring.

A bangle alternates rows of yellow round brilliant pavé-set diamonds with black aluminum, a 3.02-carat fancy deep grayish green oval-shaped diamond at the center. 

 

A pair of matching earrings, meanwhile, feature a mesmerizing concentric circle pattern thanks again to black aluminum and yellow diamonds. 

 

Two rings utilize blue and pink aluminum, respectively, alongside white diamond accents. The pink ring has a 1.01-carat fancy intense pink radiant-cut diamond at center. 

 

For fans of a more traditional, icy color palette, “Frozen Capture”—the fifth and final high jewelry set in The Alchemist of Light—delivers in spades.

 

 

To create the illusion of light reflecting on frozen rivers, De Beers utilized Brazilian rock crystal for the first time, featured alongside diamonds and white gold. 

 

The most impressive piece—a necklace—represents ice as it thaws. Round brilliant-cut white diamonds are placed between custom-cut rock crystal squares and mounted in 18-karat white gold. Below hang marquise-shaped diamonds, like melting ice. 

 

A 20.1-carat pear-shaped flawless white diamond from the Natural Works of Art diamond collection can be detached. 

 

Also featuring diamonds from the Natural Works collection are two rings. One has an 8.24-carat oval-shaped diamond set within a single piece of rock crystal, and the other a 10.31-carat round brilliant-cut diamond. 

 

A bracelet, earrings, and ear cuff and stud earring, all featuring diamonds and rock crystal squares, complete the assortment. 

 

“The Alchemist of Light High Jewelry collection represents the most creatively and technically ambitious collection we have ever conceived and crafted,” said De Beers Jewellers CEO Céline Assimon.

 

“It incorporates exceptional diamonds in white and fancy colors, including some specially selected from our ‘Natural Works of Art’ collection. Our design studio, collaborating with our specialist craftspeople, has created individual pieces that are truly wearable works of art.”